Thanksgiving Wines: Are You Sweet or Savory?

If ask Chuck Warinner, owner of the Dilly Deli in Mariemont, for a recommendation for a Thanksgiving wine, he is likely to ask if you have a sweet or savory family meal. According to Chuck, when you pair wine for Thanksgiving, it is important to consider the entire meal, not just the turkey. Does your family tend to serve sweet potatoes with mini marshmallows and sweet cranberry relish? Then you are a sweet family. If you all go for sage dressing, herbed beans and mashed potatoes, you are the savory type.

For the sweet meal, Chuck recommends a dry or slightly sweet Riesling, a light and fruity Beajolais or a Pinot Noir. He says, “Throw a Riesling on the table and it will go with just about anything.” Rieslings tend to leave the palate cleansed and refreshed. For Thanksgiving, Chuck likes a Riesling the deli is currently offering as one if its wines-by-the-glass, a 2007 Kerpen Riesling Kabinett for $21.99. For a Pinot Noir, he likes 2007 Row Eleven Viñas 3 at $18.99.

Chuck believes that a savory meal can handle a wine with more weight, like a bold, spicy red. At his Thanksgiving table, Chuck always serves an American Red Zinfandel. Red Zins are considered America’s heritage grape and some of the best wines produced in California. Chuck likes the Zin’s spicy, jammy, and peppery hints. He favors the 2006 Burnet Ridge Zinfandel North Coast (the label reads “a wine made among friends”) for $18.99 and a 2007 Saldo from Orin Swift Cellars for $29.99.

Others choices for the savory meal include Syrahs and Cabernet Francs. Chuck likes a locally produced 2007 Kinkead Ridge Cab Franc for $17.99. In fact, Chuck believes the Kinkead Ridge wine is outstanding and possibly the best Cabernet Franc produced by the winery.

You don’t want the wine to dominate the meal, according to Chuck. The focus should be on the food. So he stays away from recommending big, dry Cabernets or buttery Chardonnays. He thinks it is better to stick with wines that have a simple fruitiness and spicy character. Having said that, Chuck emphasizes that it is important not to sweat it too much and serve what you like. Also, he suggests offering a few types of wine to appeal to a variety of palates.

Sometime in November, the Dilly Deli will have shelf labels shaped like turkeys to indicate their Thanksgiving recommendations. Three turkeys are reserved for staff personal favorites and their top recommendations. The Dilly Deli Wines & Gourmet, located in the Mariemont Strand next to Starbucks, is open Monday through Thursday, 10am-9pm, and Friday and Saturday, 10am-11pm.